Author Archives: In the Wake of the Vikings

I plan to write at least two blogs on my impressions of the Parks Canada conservation, interpretation, and reconstruction of the Norse settlement at L’Anse aux Meadows. First, I’ll spin some sugar, and then I’ll throw in some spice. In the interest of full disclosure, I love Parks Canada. The facilities are generally very well-kept,Continue reading “In the Shadows of the Vikings: The Sunny Side of the Living History at L’Anse aux Meadows”

There’s still plenty of adventure to come and many tales yet to unfold, but earlier this week John and I were reflecting on what a long, strange trip it’s been—literally as well as metaphorically—and it occurs to me that some heartfelt thanks are due, and sooner rather than later. I couldn’t possibly have made thisContinue reading “A Word of Thanks to Some Salty Sea Dogs from an Old River Rat”

An evocative experience right before we landed at L’Anse aux Meadows triggered a set of powerful memories and took me many years back in time. “What is It?” Sheena Gibson had exclaimed while on one of our ten-day sea kayaking trainings for Gettysburg College in the mid-2000s. The seasoned student facilitators would often talk about “It”Continue reading “This is “It:” Team Viking’s Flow Moment at L’Anse aux Meadows”

We pause now in our earnest reflections upon our experiences In the Wake of the Vikings for a heartfelt testimonial. Over and above the marine conditions with which we have had to contend in our boats, over the past weeks we have encountered a wide range of camping conditions throughout the South Labrador Coast andContinue reading “Fire GOOD!!!!! Blackflies BAD!!!!!!!!!!”

Today marked the culmination of a dream several years in the making for Team Viking. On August 13, 2018, quite nearly four full years ago, I received what is called “the good news letter,” by the Office of the Provost of Gettysburg College. It informed me that I was eligible for a sabbatical during theContinue reading “At Long Last, Team Viking Glides along the Whale-road to L’Anse aux Meadows”

The plan for Sunday was to organize gear, wash laundry, shower, and then paddle later in the day. While Chris was taking care of his personal private business in the morning, I decided to walk to the shoreline, first, to assess the water and weather conditions and second—no, maybe first!—to get the heck away fromContinue reading “Getting into the Flow, Viking Style: Flat, Oily Calm”

We chose to stay at Pinware Provincial Park for a number of reasons, not least of which was proximity to the coastline and bays of Southern Labrador, as well as easy access to the easternmost point of the mainland of continental North America. It also is a breath-takingly beautiful park in its own right, withContinue reading “The View from the Twig: The Sense of Awe and Isolation Endemic to Labrador”

Today Team Viking did an out-and-back paddle from Mary’s Harbor, following the coastline from the boat launch at the inner harbor to Shoal Cove Head near the opening to the sea. It was a beautiful paddle with clouds overhead, mist in the air, and temperatures hovering in the mid-50s. The water leaving the harbor wasContinue reading “A Viking Reverie on the Threshold of the Labrador Sea”

Modern navigational technology can seem little short of miraculous, and there is little doubt that it saves time, trouble, and lives every single day. That said, it is far from perfect. Charts can be lost, misplaced, or destroyed; although you may order them in plenty of time—ahem!—they may get to you too late, and evenContinue reading “Navigation, Viking Style: Prodigious Memory, Long Experience, Respect for the Elders, and the Luck o’ the Norns”

Janice, the Queen Bee disguised as the town clerk in L’Anse au Loup, on the Labrador coast, greeted us warmly on a cold, blustery day. It was blustery to those from Pennsylvania and probably not so much to those who inhabit this northern territory year-round. We told Janice we were looking for the library toContinue reading “Team Viking Follows Local Advice and Explores the Attractions of Red Bay on the Labrador Coast”